Purl and Seam

Fabric : Fibre : Family

McCalls 5764 – The Linton Cape – FO 9/11

April 29, 2011

Merry Christmas, Alice-who-isn’t-a-cat.

Finally, the Linton cape is finished.

It’s been a bit of a bear to sew.  The pattern itself is really straightforward and the instructions are clear, but, as always, I made a bit more work for myself by interlining it.

I don’t mind telling you that Linton tweed and lining fabric do not make for simple sewing.

If I’d been making this for myself it would never have been finished, thats for sure!

But the result was worth the effort:
The self fabric covered buttons were super easy to do as, even though I lightly interfaced it, the loose weave of the fabric gave the teeth of the button something to hang on to:The only thing I wish for this is that I’d had enough fabric to really match the checks, but I think because they are a broken check, I can just about get away with it.  Let’s face it, it’s only us sewers who are so hyper critical of our projects, and I’m not going to be stopping passers-by, pointing at Alice and saying “look how those checks don’t match”.

Honestly. I won’t. Pinky promise!

LABELS ~ Uncategorized

SHARE >>

Jacket refashion – the last post – F/O 7/2011

March 29, 2011

It’s done.

It’s finally done.

I should have gone with a purchased pattern in the first place and saved myself some time, but I’m counting it as all part of the learning curve.   And apologies for the dark pictures.  It’s a very cloudy and gray day here but I simply couldn’t wait for the sun to return before I share this with you.

As you know the pattern used is the Chic Everyday Coat Pattern from Heidi and Finn on Etsy.  Obviously I’ve had to shorten the coat to make it fit on the fabric and I’ve straightened the A-line somewhat for the same reason.  I made the 3T size deliberately to make this too big so she’ll get extra wear out of it. To make it fit for this season I’ve shifted the buttons to make this Chinese inspired style.  I’ll just move the buttons across as she grows into it.  We’ll get lots of wear out of this beautiful coat, which I’m very happy about.

I utilised the pockets of the original jacket, much to Button’s delight.

She’s so pleased that I’ve made her a coat she insisted she wore it to visit Grandma this morning so she could show it off. Makes it all worthwhile.  I’ve a feeling this won’t be the last of these I make, but next time I’ll make the size smaller. I also think there’ll be plenty of Heidi and Finn patterns in our future too.  They are delightful.

 

LABELS ~ Uncategorized

SHARE >>

Simplicity 2648 – FO 6/2011

March 13, 2011

For The Boy’s adoption day I had been frantically sewing in an attempt to get the Linton Tweed dress finished in time. 

So much so that on Wednesday evening I sat with Alice-who-isn’t-a-cat and a glass of wine watching masterchef and frantically stitching bindings into place.

But I did it!

And I cannot begin to tell you how much I love this dress.

I cut the size 18 with a larger waist (as I don’t have one at all) and could have cut a 16 I think, as I ended up taking it in a bit.  I find this truly surreal as it’s not that long ago I was cutting the 22.  Anyhoo, because the pattern has different cup sizes there was very little else for me to alter.  I added three inches to the skirt length and next time out will add perhaps 1/2″ to the bodice.

I also took up the shoulder seam by about 5/8″ and pinched out another 1/2″ all the way down the back to stop it bagging on me.

The only thing I’d change for the next iteration is that the front neckline needs a tiny dart folding into the pattern to reduce the neckline gaposis.  But again, it’s livable with this one.

After my near disaster with the preshrinking, and after much steam pressing, I managed to restore the fabric almost to its original texture.  However it was still very wonky on the table so I’m amazed that the pattern matching came out so beautifully:

There is a seam there, I promise…you can just about see it down the middle where the horizontal stripes don’t quite line up, but full length, you ain’t seeing nothing, I can tell you!

Because the fabric is so unstable, I interlined the whole thing with an inexpensive black cotton, overlocking all the pieces together before I began construction:

‘scuse the wrinkles…this photo was taken after I’d worn the dress all day!

Because of this I felt that facings would be way too bulky so finished the armholes, neckline and hem with 1″ cotton bias tape: 

With the exception of the neckline being slightly squiffy at the top of the zip (and I’ve seen that on ready to wear costing hundreds of pounds so am cutting myself a little slack), this dress is just perfect.

It was inspired by a dress I saw last season in LK Bennet which was the same style but a dark raspberry colour and cost about £200.  Mine cost about £25!  And it fits! Which is truly a testament to doing things properly…making a muslin, taking time to press everything properly as you go, measuring seams, etc!  I’m a convert, and I will be making this dress again.

LABELS ~ Uncategorized

SHARE >>

Jacket refashion…4

February 28, 2011

In which I purchase a new pattern, make another toile and decide that if this one doesn’t work, I’m reattaching the binding and putting the jacket in the wardrobe until Button fits it, rather than the other way round!

It appears the sewing gods have taken pity on me, because, folks, this is definitely a winner!

The pattern is by Heidi and Finn on Etsy. It’s their lovely Chic Everyday Coat.

Image courtesy of http://www.etsy.com/shop/heidiandfinn

To make it work with the jacket I’m refashioning I’ve shortened the coat and reduced the a-line a smidge.  Other than that it’s a straight cut of the size 3T/4T.

So I can crack on with it now, without reinventing the wheel.

And Button is so pleased with this (even at toile stage).  In her words “I’m such a lucky girl”.

I think I’m the lucky one to have such an appreciative munchkin, no?

 

LABELS ~ Uncategorized

SHARE >>

Jacket refashion…3

February 22, 2011


Okay…I’m officially bored with this now!

After much deliberation and taking into account the advice of my most talented sewing friend, I realised that I wasn’t quite as talented as she, and scrapped the original pattern and muslin.

Next up is a version of my own designing, based upon Button’s nursery cardigan.

This is the second toile and I’m not overly convinced!

Perhaps I need to park this, do another project and come back to it with fresh eyes.  And a different pattern!

What do you think?

LABELS ~ Uncategorized

SHARE >>

Jacket refashion…2

February 14, 2011

Or, “why we make a muslin!” (with apologies for a tomato smeared face and a paint smeared pinafore.  These pictures were taken just before bath time).

This is pretty dreadful.

And at first I was blaming myself and my shoddy drafting skills for the new sleeve, which is too narrow and too pointy at the top of the sleeve head.

But closer inspection finds problems in areas that I haven’t touched.  The shoulder seam sits very far back, the whole thing is too small across the shoulders and the back neck is very low indeed. As I haven’t removed the seam allowance there, it’s a pretty crazy neckline.

The pinafore pattern fits so nicely right out of the envelope so I’m quite surprised this is so small on her.

Anyhoo, I now have two choices.

  1. I can fiddle with this to make it just right.  This will involve adding some width to the shoulders, raising the neckline, moving the shoulder seam forwards and redrafting the sleeve.
  2. I can go back to the drawing board and either start with a new pattern or draft something myself.

As I’m pretty tired and have a warm bath and a glass of wine with my name on them, I’m holding off on decisions for tonight.

Any suggestions very much appreciated.

LABELS ~ Uncategorized

SHARE >>

Jacket refashion…1

February 8, 2011

Quite some time ago Himmelbjerget gave me this fabulous child’s jacket to be refashioned into something for Button.

It’s a beautiful boiled wool with a knitted trim from Geiger Collections of Austria.  It’s for a child 140cm tall and as Button is under 90cms (she’s teeny tiny) something had to be done.

Ma has the patience of a saint and removed the trim for me last year.  The jacket has languished along with the rest of the stash since then.

So, with my February goals firmly in mind, over the past couple of nights I’ve been fiddling and faffing and working out how to cut it down to make a pretty little spring jacket for a pretty little girl.

I’ve decided to hack up the coat pattern from Simplicity 4712, as I can’t ever see myself making the coat:

So far I’ve made the following alterations:

  • Removed 6″ from the coat hem
  • Removed 1 cm from the front edge
  • Marked 2cm in from the side seam at the hem and straightened the A-line to the underarm (nothing was removed at the underarm)
  • Converted the round neck to a v neck (I’m binding the neckline and not adding a collar)
  • Removed the 1 1/4″ hem allowance from the sleeve.  The hems will be bound.

The front and backs now fit  the coat front and backs and mean I can use the existing buttonholes and pockets. Woot!

The sleeves were a different ball game.

You can’t really see from the picture but they are very puffed and not at all what I was looking for.  I measured the armhole on the front and back bodices and it came to 29.5cm.  The sleeve head was 33cm.  That’s an awful lot of ease – particularly in boiled wool.

After much pondering, and enough head scratching to embed splinters in my fingertips, I referred to Helen Joseph Armstrong and redrafted the sleeve head. You can just see the new cutting lines here:

This removed 10cms of ease which makes it much more manageable.  It also takes 2″ off the total width of the sleeve.

BTW I know it’s crazy that I’ve got measurements in inches and cms but I only used one or the other for each alteration and it depended on which ruler or set of instructions I was using as to whether imperial or metric came up trumps.

So now it’s time to muslin this and see if it works.  If it fits her nicely the actual construction should be really straightforward as the original jacket is sewn on an overlocker with all the edges bound with that lovely trim.  If it’s good enough for the original production team it’s good enough for me!

LABELS ~ Uncategorized

SHARE >>

Simplicity 4712 – FO 4 & 5/2011

February 7, 2011

I’ve given up waiting for good light to photograph these little pinafores, so please excuse the slightly weird pics.

Both are made from this pattern:

It’s such a simple pattern which makes up in no time at all.

I’m sure you’ll recognise that the navy dress is the last of the nasty polyester. The pink is a piece of floral corduroy given to me by Himmelbjerget.

Both dresses have a straightforward lapped zipper at the centre back:

with armhole and neckline facings which you can just see peeping out on this picture.

The navy dress has a ribbon faced hem just because I could:

and the pink hem has the best top-stitching I have ever achieved.  I’m mighty chuffed with it:

I’ve fiddled with the exposure here to show the stitching

The stash gets smaller!

 

LABELS ~ Uncategorized

SHARE >>

Not-quite-a-Birthday-Party-Dress FO 2/2011

January 24, 2011

Yesterday I finished the second navy pinafore for Button.I used the Oliver + S Birthday Party Dress pattern, but this time cut a size larger.  She will insist on growing!

Also, because this nasty fabric really doesn’t pleat very well, I altered the front to remove the pleated section, making this a plain square necked pinafore with a button back.

Button is delighted with it and insisted on wearing it to nursery this morning.

LABELS ~ Uncategorized

SHARE >>

The Dress – The Details

December 1, 2010

Just in case you’re interested, here are some details about the dress.

The pattern is Vintage Vogue 2903.  The pattern is very easy to put together but doesn’t include a pattern for a petticoat or a lining, which I think is remiss. You need the petticoat to complete the line of the dress and frankly, I wouldn’t make an occasion dress like this without a lining, so I drafted my own by removing the pleat sections and the facings from the main pattern pieces.  In my opinion the Big 4 patterns are really lazy about details like this and need to sort their act out.  Just my opinion.

The fabric is a polyester duchesse satin from John Lewis (where else!).  I was going to use silk duchesse from James Hare, but baulked at the cost for a dress I will only wear once.  Oh, and this satin totally matches the colour of my engagement and eternity rings, so it was a no-brainer.

The dress is interlined with cotton lawn purchased from Fabric Imports Direct on eBay.  I would definitely buy from them again.

I also used dress net to interline the dress. This and the lining (a simple poly lining) were both bought from my local sewing shop, The Buttonhole in Chorley.

If I were making this dress again I wouldn’t interline the sleeves as this adds a bit too much bulk for easing the sleeves into the bodice. I would also perhaps change the armhole to give myself a little more hugging room around the armsyce.  But the restriction enabled me to be very ladylike for the day…most unusual!

Oh, and I wouldn’t scorch my dress two days before the wedding either!  We weren’t sure whether it was a scorch or a smudge so the dress went to the cleaners, which accounts for slight puckering where the cotton lawn has slightly shrunk!  Thankfully we could hide it in the side pleat.

I’m going with the adage that only God creates perfection!

But I do love this dress and when you compare it to the Pastel Outfit of Shame, it just goes to show what a difference careful fabric choices and taking your time over the construction makes.

The shoes are this season’s LK Bennett.  The stockings are from Touchable….I would buy a size smaller next time.

The garter (you can see it in the wedding photos…I’m not doing an action shot!) is from Rigby and Peller, a gift from my extravagant and  naughty friends Alice-who-isn’t-a-cat and Kelly (who has just the chicest bob ever!)

The pearls are vintage….they were my maternal grandmother’s.

The earrings were borrowed from Black Purl (she of the spectacular feathered hat)

The hat is John Lewis too, although everyone was amazed that it too wasn’t vintage.

LABELS ~ Uncategorized

SHARE >>
  • « Previous Page
  • 1
  • …
  • 11
  • 12
  • 13
  • 14
  • 15
  • …
  • 17
  • Next Page »

Welcome

Image of a woman in her fifties taken from the shoulders up. She has grey shoulder length hair, brown eyes and a soft smile.

Hi there,
I'm Evie and I knit, stitch, spin and sew.
With varying degrees of success!
But always with my family around me in our little town in the North of England.
Grab a brew and stay a while.

LET’S GET SOCIAL

  • Instagram

LOOKING FOR SOMETHING

JOIN THE LIST

Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts in your inbox.

ARCHIVES

POPULAR POSTS

Aislinn – the finished garment and a giveaway!

Simplicity 1886 – FO 18/2013 – review and a splendid Simplicity pattern giveaway

The skirt is nearly done!

BurdaStyle 130 – blue silk prom gown

Pavlova out-of-the-envelope – FO 14/2013

DISCLOSURE POLICY

Occasionally I’ll include affiliate links in my posts.   If you click through and make a  purchase, I may receive a small commission, at no cost to you!  As you’d expect, I only recommend goods or services that I think are awesome and worth sharing.

COPYRIGHT NOTICE

© COPYRIGHT PURLANDSEAM

THEME BY ECLAIR DESIGNS