I recently made a Tessuti Monroe Turtleneck for myself from some French terry that was in deep stash. The fabric was a mispurchase years ago and has been languishing. I thought it would make a wearable muslin of this pattern, but I was wrong. It was a travesty. The fabric didn’t work for the pattern, too rigid, and it looked awful.
My only solution was to chop it up into something for the kids. The old favourite standby Cowl Neck Sweater and Dress pattern from Heidi and Finn was pressed into service.
I made the straight age 12 long sleeved. I love the fit on this.
This pattern is such a quick and easy sew, it was a lovely refresher after the disaster of the Tessuti sweater. I’m not fond of French terry. This is the first time I’ve sewn with it. It would be the last, but Summer loves it so I may be overruled!
I love this little pattern. This is a favourite pattern that gets pulled out year after year. On a whim, I checked out the site to see what new releases she had issued.
The Cadin Blazer is on the cutting table now!
Back to the subject of Tessuti, I’m aware there is much discussion on the interwebs at the moment about their sizing. I’m torn on this.
As a plus sized woman, the lack of inclusivity in pattern sizing (and, let’s be honest) RTW clothing, is hugely frustrating. I have income to spend on patterns and fabric, and RTW, but size exclusivity restricts my ability to purchase the things I’d like to.
I’m on the cusp of Tessuti’s largest size, but I do need to do a significant FBA to get anywhere close to getting it to fit.
For me the problem is not only lack of inclusivity in the range of sizes (and I’m aware this is problematic at both ends of the size chart, not just plus sizes), but also the insistence on drafting for a B cup.
I need to do a minimum 3″ FBA on a pattern drafted for a B cup. And then figure out how to distribute the enormous dart this results in.
I for one appreciate the work that many independent pattern companies are doing in increasing their size ranges, and drafting with more cup sizes. It’s pretty straightforward to add an inch FBA….3″…less so.
However, on the flip side, I fully understand that not every company has the financial wherewithal to expand their ranges. Or, in fact, even the desire to do so.
And that’s their choice.
But….I really want do dive deep into my sewing practice this year. To start really nailing fit on some key pieces that I can make over and over again.
I want to build a stable of well fitting patterns in key shapes. It’s been a long term goal but having cleared the decks recently of dross patterns I honing the idea even more. This is still a work in progress, but progress is definitely being made.
The upshot of all this thinking is a very clear decision about investing in my hobby and my wardrobe. So I won’t be spending any more money with pattern companies, or indeed shops, whose business model isn’t inclusive of me. I don’t want to spend my time trying to grade up, or finangle giant fit issues. I want to start with a basic that’s at least meeting me half way, so I can finally fill my wardrobe with beautifully made, well fitting garments that work for my lifestyle.
If you, as a pattern designer or store, don’t want to work with me on this goal, that’s fine. I wish you luck and I’ll spend my money elsewhere. But I’ll still be spending with Heidi and Finn.
PS. I know that the Tessuti Monroe is a free pattern, and it’s good that they share some patterns for free, but a free pattern is a great way to drive traffic to your website. It’s not an entirely altruistic offering.
I can understand your frustration with pattern makers but some are starting to heed the call for more ‘realistic’ sizing. I know that Megan Nielsen, for example, has introduced a ‘Curve’ range which includes sizes 14-30 and, within that range, they size the patterns for a D cup.
Whether or not you will find something you like amongst her patterns is another matter but at least she’s trying.
Possibly the lack of larger sizes in this pattern range is simply because the style of the garments is more suitable for a smaller, flatter chested figure? There are definitely different criteria when designing for a fuller bustline and larger sizes and the biggest challenge is to design a garment that can do that. Burda for example have different or adapted designs for their larger sizes. Although some designers offer a full range of sizes that doesn’t mean that all those garments will necessarily flatter the figures at the two ends of the range.
Spoken by someone who has always been at the A-cup end and who has had the opposite problem to you of how to get rid of surplus ease on the front of my chest!
I think the discussion about flattering is another highly charged one. And what you consider to be flattering is definitely an individual choice.
However in Tessuti’s case they’ve clearly stated that they do not want to extend their range above current sizes.
I’m fine with that. It’s their business and only they know what their model is and what their capabilities are.
I’m just making a choice that from now on I’m only to buy from suppliers that do work for me. I’ve wasted too much time and money in the past.
Absolutely. And it’s really good to see the change.
I totally understand that making that change isn’t for everyone. And I’m fine with that. I’m just only supporting brands that do from now on.
As an example I’ve got the Helen’s Closet Elliot on
My sewing table. And I’ve got my eye on the MN Dawn jeans.