Purl and Seam

Fabric : Fibre : Family

Wrap blouse v2.0

July 12, 2009

The phrase “from the sublime to the ridiculous” is definitely springing to mind as I write this post.

Following my last post I checked more books and even went to the library and borrowed The Perfect Fit!  They showed full bust adjustment for a pattern without a bust dart.  One which doesn’t add a bust dart.  Cool!!!!

So I followed the directions.

I marked up the pattern as instructed:003Then cut and spread.  Here it got a little tricky. They told you the maximum amount to spread, but didn’t give any recommendations based on cup size.  So I guessed.

004I also added a bit to the side seams and to the front edge as planned.

I may have overdone it.  A bit.015I had tea with Himmelbjerget on Friday (and some rather lovely buns that Little Stitch and Nino enjoyed immensely) and we pinned and pinched and I think we’ve got it sussed.  I’m going to make another version of the toile either tomorrow or Tuesday and we’ll see.  Very nearly there I think.  I HOPE!

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Good grief, Charlie Brown!!!

July 7, 2009

I’m sure you’ll recall that my original plan for the black gingham blouse was to make flat alterations to the front, which would provide a reasonably fitting toile that just needed some tweaks.

And that the original plan went out of the window.

Whilst Little Stitch took an afternoon nap, I sewed up the toile.  And it is, dear reader, my worst nightmare.  Although I do think it has potential, hence the public humiliation of the following photos.

Starting with the back, my initial thoughts are that a good start would be to:

  • adjust the yoke to compensate for my slightly rounded back
  • let out the waist to compensate for not having one!

If you scare easily, look away now.  The front is even worse:

013Again, I have some initial thoughts:

  • Letting out the waist should alleviate the pull across the front
  • It still needs a full bust adjustment (hence the black dots playing “hunt the bust point”
  • I think I need to lift the neckline a little too – I think flashing your bra at playgroup is frowned upon.
  • Oh!  And I think the armhole probably needs lifting too.  But I’m going to do that last to see how much difference the other changes make.011

The only godsend is the the side seam looks like it’s pretty much where it should be.

So I’ve locked the workroom door for tonight.  Hopefully my brain will work on this over the next couple of days and work it out.  I won’t get chance to come back to this until probably Thursday at the least.

What do you think? Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcome.  Please be gentle with me.

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We interrupt our scheduled sewing…

July 6, 2009

…to rustle up a quick (for me, anyway) robe.004

Close of the belt loop - cord made from 4 strands of thread

Close up of the belt loop - cord made from 4 strands of thread

It’s made up in Amy Butler Lotus Tree Peony in Slate. I ordered this from the States, via Fabric Supplies on Etsy. It only took a week for the fabric to arrive. The best part is that, even including shipping costs, the fabric was cheaper to import than to buy in the UK.  Strange but true.

I’m awaiting the complimentary spot fabric to make matching pyjama bottoms. It’s en route.  I’m hoping they turn out as well as the robe. I’m awfully pleased with it. The pattern is a Burda envelope pattern that I’ve made up before. This time I altered the kimono sleeves to reduce them in width and length.  They’re much more practical this way.

Also going well is the Cabled Raglan Baby Sweater, a free downloadable pattern from knittingdaily.com.009

The gingham wrap blouse, on the other hand, is giving me heebies.

I’d planned to do the full bust adjustment shown in the April/May 2009 edition of  Threads magazine.  A cunning plan as this blouse doesn’t have a dart and I wanted to add one.  However, as cunning plans are wont to do, this one failed at the first hurdle.

The blouse has yoke panels.  And front gathering.

So it’s beyond the wit of me to work out how to do the illustrated dart insertion with those added features.

Enter Plan B.

I’m making a toile.  I’ve just cut out the size I need, am going to sew it up and then see where the kinks are and work from there.  More time consuming, sure, but better than wasting any more time trying to figure it out on paper, poring over texts for help or just generally cussing at the pattern in a most unladylike fashion.

I’m planning to sew it up tomorrow and try it on.  I’ll let you know how I get on.

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Vogue 8543 – Knit top

June 21, 2009

010I have to admit to loving this top.  The photo, less so, but it’s the end of the day and I’m going to suck it up!

This pattern is super easy to make, it fit right out of the envelope, and it hides the fact that I’ve eaten far to much of Ma Stitches-in-Law’s lovely pie and bread and butter pudding (separate plates, obviously).

You’ll remember that I added 8cm to the length because it looked like it would come up short. Well, when I’d sewn the thing together and tried it on, I cut the 8cm right back off again.  And it’s a fabulous length.  Particularly for picking up a small child without flashing your midriff to the world.  Always a bonus in my book.

One small query in my mind is the unfinished neckline.  It wasn’t a surprise as it’s clearly listed in the description on the envelope back.  This has also been discussed in other parts of Blogland.  However, when I make this again, and I will, I may try adding a self fabric binding to the neck once the pleats have been made.  It would change the look slightly but worth a try, no?

Next up is the wrap front blouse from the black and white gingham I bought during my last trip to London:013This project will take a little longer because instead of cobbling together something slapdash and then hating it because it doesn’t fit, I’m going to do a full bust adjustment and make it fit properly.

Also, Ma Stitches is coming for a visit on Tuesday – she’ll be here for a week, woo hoo!!!!  Not much sewing will be going on whilst she’s here as we’ve lots of lovely outings planned.   Woo hoo again!  Although obviously there’ll be some knitting – I’ve another little cardigan on the needles for Little Stitch.  Not the raspberry!  I’m still not speaking to that yarn.

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Too much cake

June 16, 2009

I know that “too much cake” is a concept not often discussed on this blog, or, frankly, one that I’m particularly familiar with. But after today’s sewing escapades (yes…finally there have been some) I’m pretty sure I’m going to have to investigate this phenomenon more closely.

You’ll remember the silk dress I wanted to remodel.  Well, Little Stitch went visiting today with Nana and Grandpa, and I locked myself in the workroom and got to it.

I tweaked and cursed and cut and stitched, and maybe cursed some more, until I had a dress that actually works. All that’s left to do is bind the neckline, hand stitch the lining in place and lift the hem by about 5 inches:

Ooooooh! Ignore the creases!
Ooooooh! Ignore the creases!

Oh.  And lose about 8lbs.

Damn you cake. Damn your gorgeous, luscious, deliciousness.  And damn your insistence on lurking around my midriff long after I thought you’d been and gone.

So the dress is consigned to the scrapheap popped onto Maud to await a miraculous shrinking of the waistline. Sigh!

By this time Little Stitch had returned and I was planning a quick win.  But firstly I needed a cunning plan to keep her entertained whilst I cut out a quick pattern:

023

Note to self…don’t let her get her hands on the patterns themselves for a while.  However, whilst she was distracted I cut the pattern for Vogue V8534:035

I’m making it up in this fabric:040

Which I purchased from our local market for the princely sum of £5.00 and thus this will become a wearable muslin to test:

  • the pattern
  • my skills at sewing knits, which are definately in need of some development
  • my skills on the Coverstitch machine, which are virtually non-existent

As there’s a lot of pleating in the front I’ve not done a full bust adjustment, time will tell if this is wise.   I’m cutting View A sleeves with View B hem, and I’ve added 8cms to the length in an attempt to get it to look the same and not end somewhere around the waistband of my jeans.

Little Stitch is going to bed soon (Daddy is just putting her jammies on as I type) and as Mr Stitch has a little work to do before supper, I’m going to sneak back to the table and cut out the fabric.

Edit at 8.15pm: Fabric cut and ready to sew.  I’m off for supper.

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Pendle who?

June 12, 2009

I love reading others blogs and seeing all the lovely things they’ve sewn.  I’m always inspired and think “I really must get on with some sewing”.

I worry that you, dear reader, will stray, thinking “Pendle Stitches????? Hardly!”

It’s easy to type whilst feeding Little Stitch, or whilst she sits having her drink. Less easy to sew with her around.  At least until she gets used to the play pen.

But last night Mr Stitch was away on business, Little Stitch was in bed, and all the ironing was done. I managed an hour in the workroom before hunger insisted I sit and have supper and then curl up on the couch with a glass of Merlot and a sleeve to knit.

So. Did I work on the silk dress that needs remodelling????   Noooooooooo.

Did I work on the black twill trousers that are cut and ready to sew?????  Bless you.  Don’t be silly.

What did I do?

I altered the hem and sleeves on a black jersey dress that’s been at the back of the wardrobe for ages.  It’s a good basic dress but, whilst it worked in an office environment, it didn’t for my new life. I don’t think its even worth a picture, but I’m pleased because

  • I actually sewed something
  • It’s been waiting to be altered for MONTHS
  • I get to wear it again, and it’s a very nice dress
  • I used my Coverstitch machine for the first time (and it only took six months)

It’s a start. Right?

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Making progress

June 6, 2009

Once again that wretched lurgy caught up with me and had me relegated to the sofa watching CBeebies (not my choice but great for keeping Little Stitch entertained when Mummy has her nose stuck in a box of tissues).

I’m slowly coming out the other side of it (although Mr S and Little S have now decided to follow my example and become all snuffly).  So today I finally made some progress on sorting out the sewing room.  So much so that next week I’ll probably be actually able to start making something.  Crikey.  I found a pair of black twill trousers already cut out and a dress that I’d made, hated and unpicked.  I suspect these will be the starting point.

In other news, after the best part of 5 months of wrangling with the Open University about transferring my French course to next year (they weren’t up for it – I was insistent) they have finally agreed to let me do so. I am thrilled. It means I’ll be able to finish my degree with them without wasting almost £1000.

It’s a good feeling when good business sense and a willingness to support a keen student win out over “policy”.

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Black tulips

April 30, 2009

Secondly….the finished kitchen blind:

0112The pattern match was a pain in the behind on this one, but I think it’s worth it.  I absolutely love this fabric and it makes such a difference to the room.  The light is softer and the room feels warmer.  And I’m glad it’s something a little different from the usual check that I put in kitchens.  There will be a matching curtain for the patio doors but that can wait a while.  I’m busy with a blind for the baby room.  (Words I never thought I’d hear myself say!)

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A capital day

April 2, 2009

Having looked at the “stash” (I can hear you laughing, you know!  I do appreciate that it’s not a real stash but Mr S isn’t to be convinced, so work with me here) I realised that whilst I have fabric, very little of it is suitable for the new season.

Now I’m not one to jump the gun, but the sun has been making valiant attempts to push the clouds out of the way (generally by putting one hand on the cloud’s forehead and holding it at arms length).  It’s not completely freezing cold and we’ve had a couple of days without rain.  That counts as balmy around these parts.

So, reviewing the fabric crisis it was agreed that a trip to London might just be the order of the day.  Whilst there are obviously some fabric shops north of Watford Gap, there is nothing to compare to the glory that is Berwick Street:

004and, more specifically:

002*Cue harps and choirs of angelic voices*

Now, once upon a time in a former life I used to work in Soho.  And I mean work as in “gainfully employed” not “Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman”.  My office was less than a five minute walk from The Cloth House.  And because of my working hours and the commute and studies, I didn’t sew the whole time I worked there.  Now I do have time to sew, I live at the other end of the country.  There’s some irony in there somewhere.

Whilst Soho is a haven for all that is eccentric and eclectic in the English (in every good way and lots of weird ways), even I raised the odd eyebrow as I skipped through the door with a maniacal grin on my face.  When I started stroking the stock they nearly had me ejected.

However, I clung to the doorframe long enough to make a few small purchases:

Dark denim to make a skirt

Dark denim to make a skirt

Doubleknit for cardigan as pattern and a matching shell top

Double-knit for cardigan as pattern and a matching shell top

Black cotton gingham for a retro styled wrap blouse

Black cotton gingham for a retro styled wrap blouse

I think I was very restrained.   Phew!  (We shan’t count the Burda, Marie Claire Idees and Debbie Bliss magazines, shall we?)

Feeling virtuous I skipped over to Loop, Ottolenghi and Gill Wing in Islington.  Here I managed to escape having only purchased a 3-pack of cable needles. (Mainly because even I can’t justify £20 for a skein of yarn! No matter how luscious.)

All this shopping induced a great urge for refreshment.  I’d arranged to meet Alice (the human one, not the feline one) who was in the mood for fizz. At 2.15 in the afternoon!  Who am I to argue?

007I’ll draw a line under the rest of the afternoon!  Needless to say it was very giggly! And to the lady with the fabulous boots who I feel may have thought we were about to mug her, nope, we just thought your boots were amazing!

Coffee and cake fortified us for the tube journey home/hotel (we transport cattle in better conditions than we do humans on the Underground).  All in all a rather splendid day.

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WooHoo!

March 24, 2009

I can’t believe that the sitting room curtains are finally finished.  I’m rather pleased, not only because they look quite spiffing…

0362but also because the weather here is back on form and it’s howling a gale and bucketing down with rain.  Plus ca change.

Now, I can see the errors, and I know that they need dressing, but still, they do finish the room and are well worth the effort and bloodied fingers. I’m going to set the pleats tomorrow and am playing hunt the tie-back, but to all intents and purposes they are finished.

Also finished is Mr Stitches Maille vest from knitonthenet.

031This is a super easy pattern, but did give me pause at the shoulders, which are shaped with short rows and then the seam is created with a three needle cast off.  Well, there’s another skill learned.  I do love it when these things creep up on you and you have to get to grips with something quick.

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Image of a woman in her fifties taken from the shoulders up. She has grey shoulder length hair, brown eyes and a soft smile.

Hi there,
I'm Evie and I knit, stitch, spin and sew.
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