Purl and Seam

Fabric : Fibre : Family

Simplicity 1606 – review

September 13, 2014

Simplicity 1606-1

It’s scandalous that it’s about a year since I received this pattern.  This review is well overdue!

I’ve spoken about the alterations that I made to the pattern, and can only reiterate that I really, really like this design and would definitely recommend it and suspect I’ll be making this one again! I can’t comment about the instructions, because I didn’t follow them.

I know…that’s no help to anyone!

The fabric, whilst lovely to look at, was a pig to sew.  Shifty, stretchy, just generally a nuisance and a right royal PITA.  It’s also pilling a little after just a couple of wears. Which is a pain and makes me glad this is a dress that I’m not planning to wear every day.

Even so…and taking into account the creasiness of this because it’s linen…I think this dress is definitely worth the hassle.

simplicity 1606-1-1

Although I’ve gained a significant amount of weight this year* this dress reminds me of the me that wore the Giverny dress.  That, my friends is a very good thing indeed.

Simplicity 1606-1-3

We had such a laugh taking these photos. The Husband and I were on our way to our favourite local Italian bistro for a romantic dinner a deux, and stopped en route at this picturesque archway, which is, in fact the entrance to a not particularly picturesque nursing home.

It is, however, on the main road through the village and caused much amusement and amazement on the part of passing motorists, as I posed by the wall and The Husband stood in the middle of the road, snapping shots like a veritable David Bailey.

I didn’t care…I was in the company of my gorgeous hubby, in a pretty frock, en route for a glass of wine and a bowl of lobster ravioli.

Simplicity 1606-1-4

That’s enough to make any girl smile!

*thank you very much, medication. I’m glad to see the back of you now.  And hopefully my toes in the not too distant future!

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Favourite Amy Herzog designs…yours and mine

September 5, 2014

Wow…you guys…I’ve been blown away by your lovely, lovely comments on my Aislinn post. Thank you so very much.  The more you commented the more I thought it would be really cool to have a look at some of your favourite Amy designs…and the one’s that I’m contemplating knitting next.

But first, I’d like to say that the only reason I dislike these photos is because, as my darling husband so “gallantly” pointed out, I look like I’ve had one too many Jack Daniels’ and have found the nearest wall to slide down.

How rude…I never have too many to drink in the park!

Moving swiftly on!

Carol commented that she

“seriously considered the Aislinn, but I think I’m too straight up and down (not enough hip curves) to have it look the way I think it should on me”

Carol, I have absolutely no hip/waist ratio.  Boys have more hip curves than I do. Thankfully on my Aislinn there is the gentlest waist shaping at the back that helps me out no end and gives me the faintest illusion of a waist.  Hope that helps.

Now…the pretties.  I went all “hi-tech” and made a pie chart!**  The folk at Apple are quaking in their boots!

Amy Fave Sweaters

You can see that the most coveted designs, after an self-imagined sweater are*:

acorn trail
acorn trail
cushman
cushman
alight
alight
cushing isle
cushing isle

Both Cushing Isle and Cushman are on my radar.  I love this shape for a cardigan and I adore the stitch patterns used (but not in Rowan Tweed…I’ve learnt that lesson!).

I’m also loving these:

birch bark
birch bark
february fitted sweater
february fitted sweater
twinflower
twinflower
vignette
vignette

They are all so pretty and so very wearable.  But tippy top of my list at the moment are a sweater and a cardigan.

The cardigan will be a hip length Boyfriend cardigan with pockets and a v-neck, probably in a simple stocking stitch (stockinette).  The perfect basic, that doubles as a lightweight jacket but is casual enough to wear with jeans for a playdate in the park.  For this I’ll use the design-your-own feature.

And, to be fair, I had this in mind when planning what I want to buy at Yarndale later in the month…then Amy threw a spanner in the knitterly works by releasing her new pattern, straight into CustomFit!

I give you Seguin:

seguin

seguin

I cannot tell you how much I love this.  I’d do it hip length to wear with skinny jeans and boots.  I’m thinking navy and ivory…or maybe navy and a pearl grey.  I need to look at what’s available.  But I’m confident that this is the next thing I’ll be knitting for myself.

Or…maybe I’ll do both!

So, you’ve still got 3 days to enter the giveaway…don’t forget to let me know what design is your favourite.

* All photos used in this post are the property of Amy Herzog.  

** Snapshot of comments taken at 18.30 gmt on Friday 5th.  Obviously this is a moveable feast.

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Aislinn – the finished garment and a giveaway!

September 1, 2014

At last…my Aislinn is finished and ready to be worn.  It seems to have been a very long journey since I decided to knit this cardigan.

aislinn-1

But my timing is uncharacteristically perfect.  Over the last week the weather has started to hint at Autumn and yesterday, as we headed to the park for the last time before school starts again tomorrow, it was cool enough to wear her and snatch a few photos.

Aislinn_1

I’ll admit to not liking a single one of these photos, but even so I think these photos show what a beautiful cardigan this is and, more importantly, how well it fits.  You’ll find my review about the knitting/fitting process here.

Aislinn_3

The yarn is Rown Tweed and whilst it is very pretty and very soft (although it has a whisper of scratchiness that means I’ll always wear this over a sleeve), I’m slightly wishful that I’d picked a crisper yarn with better stitch definition.

Aislin_harebell_pigtailStill…I’ve worn this a couple of times over the last week and each time someone has commented on how lovely it is.  It’s a dream to wear…as you’d imagine from a garment that actually fits…and is perfect to throw on as a jacket replacement when playing in the park.  I do love it!

I can’t wait to make my next CustomFit garment.  I’m not sure what it will be…I’ve lots of knitting and sewing ideas in my head at the moment.  But I’m off to Yarndale at the end of the month so you know I’ll be buying some yarn there!

In the meantime, Amy and her lovely team have very kindly offered one lucky reader the chance to give CustomFit a try for themselves.  Just enter below and keep your fingers crossed!

a Rafflecopter giveaway

 

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CustomFit by Amy Herzog – a review

August 13, 2014

The plasterers are plastering.

The kids are thankfully at a playscheme every day and grandparents for tea each evening (thank you grandparents…yet again I couldn’t do this without you!).

I am slowly losing the will with the mess, but have my eye on the prize and am going shopping for a new fireplace and possibly doors at the weekend.

All that aside, I finally have Aislinn blocking…I’m hoping she’ll be dry for the weekend, but it’s awfully soggy here at the moment, so it’s taking time. Whilst we wait for that I thought it might be a good idea to share my thoughts about the whole CustomFit experience.

customfit

 

I know that many folks have pondered whether the system works or not, and, in fact, HOW the whole thing works.  So here we go…I’ll try to explain.

What is CustomFit?

For those of you that haven’t come across CustomFit yet, Amy describes it as:

“CustomFit is a web application that will produce bottom-up sweater patterns tailored to your body’s measurements. That means: You put in your body measurements (just once) and knit a swatch (at least once). When you’re ready to create a sweater, decide what kind of fit you want (close, average, or relaxed), and either choose one of our “CustomFit Classics” or create an entirely new design. Select the body and swatch the design is for, and easy as that, you have a pattern!”

Sounds really straightforward, no? There has, however, been much confusion over some of the terminology. So, to clarify, here’s what you need to do:

How do I create my CustomFit version of one of Amy’s designs?

1) Decide which pattern you want to knit.  I’m assuming at this point it’s going to be one of Amy’s patterns.  If not, I’ll come back to that a wee bit later.

2) Log on to the CustomFit website and put in all the measurements listed.  Yes this takes a bit of time, but it’s most definitely worth it. And you only have to do it once!

3)  Next, you need to do the swatching.  I know, I know…but I’m totally converted to swatching after watching Amy’s Craftsy course.  I make bigger swatches and do different needle sizes to ensure that not only is the fabric coming up to the required tension (gauge), but also I like the fabric it’s creating.  Because if I don’t, now is the time to do something about it, not 3 months down the line when I’ve completed the garment.  Ask me how I know!

4) By now you’re ready to start building your customised knitting instructions for the design of your choice, so click on the design button on the home page.  Some of Amy’s patterns are already ready to go…you just need to follow the instructions on the page.  You’ll only need to add a few details and your customised pattern will be ready to print.

5) For the other patterns in the range you’ll need to buy the CustomFit recipe, which will give you all the information you need to complete the design process and produce your customised pattern.

Whichever way you go the process is really straightforward once you actually start popping numbers into the system.  I think the problem has been that this is a completely new way of purchasing knitting patterns, and as such has potentially confusing new terminology.

What if I want to use another designer’s design?

Good question!

My understanding is that Amy is hoping to encourage other designers to produce CustomFit recipes in the future.  Until then I would suppose that you can use the “Classic Silhouettes” or “Build Your Own From Scratch” functions to create a set of knitting instructions that would give you the basic shaping onto which you could superimpose the pattern from your chosen designer.

For example…

I’ve got my eye on Kate Davies’ Catkin sweater:

catkinthreequarter_medium2

I could make a CustomFit pattern using the Scoop Neck Pullover template

scoop-pulli

and then use Kate’s Pattern for the rib lengths and cable design.

Does that make sense?

Isn’t it an awfully bloody expensive way to buy a knitting pattern?

Another really good question…to which my answer is “yes” and “no”.

Yes…

Amy’s standard knitting patterns are $7.00 each.  A CustomFit pattern + CustomFit Recipe is $12.50.

That’s a 75% increase in the cost of the pattern, which is a pretty hefty number if you’re just looking at numbers.

However….

  1. You don’t have to do any knitting math.
  2. If you’re anything like me you’re going to spend quite a bit of your life knitting this garment…you want it to fit at the end of it.
  3. You don’t have to do the math…I’d sell my wallpaper scraping mother to avoid having to do knitting math!
  4. Even at $12.50 it’s comparable to an Indie sewing pattern, and you’d still have to do the fitting on the sewing pattern!
  5. Did I mention the math…or lack of it?

For me, that extra $5.50 (which, FYI, is roughly equivalent to one large Frappuccino Light) is money very, very well spent that saves me much head scratching and cussing, and let’s me get to the fun bit, the knitting, as quickly as possible.

Obviously, the key question is…

Did it work and does it fit?

Yes (bar two minor hiccups) and yes!

Minor hiccup number one was setting the lace pattern on the front.  It took full consultation of my knitterly friends over coffee and cake to resolve it, so I’m putting that one down to instructions that could have done with a little more clarity.  That said, it wasn’t an insurmountable problem, just potato/potahto!

Hiccup number two was entirely down to me.  I merrily input my measurements into the programme, cast on and knit away on the back of the cardigan, only to realise that I’d actually put two much length into the mix and the finished garment wouldn’t look how I wanted it to look in the end.

So I ripped it back a bit and made a quick adjustment (that even my math phobic brain could deal with because the CustomFit pattern not only gives you the length of the bit your currently knitting (eg back length…knit until work measures X”) but also the number of rows (eg back length….knit X rows).  I can most assuredly count rows and jot them down on a piece of paper!

The key thing is that pre-blocking, I tried the Aislinn cardigan on and she fits like a dream.

Assuming I’ve not buggered that up with the blocking, you’ll be able to see the finished thing very soon and judge for yourself?

Would you use CustomFit again?

Absolutely!  I’m of too Yarndale in September and am planning to purchase yarn for a couple of Amy’s designs, yet to be decided, to keep me in stitches over the winter months.

Things to bear in mind

At the moment CustomFit only does women’s patterns and designs that are knit flat and seamed.  It’s my understanding that at some point an option to create men’s patterns will be introduced, and also designs knitted in the round…but I don’t have any more information on that at the moment.  It’s just a case of “watch this space”, I think.

Cue another “thank you”…this time to Liz who whipped my knitted pieces away and in the blink of an eye had them seamed up into a cardigan with the most beautiful and invisible mattress stitch.

Unexpected upside!

Astonishingly, and unexpectedly, the success of this pattern has made me even more keen to get to grips with fitting knits (which dovetails nicely with the work I’m currently doing on upping my sewing fitting skills).  Whilst my next couple of knits will definitely be Amy’s designs, I’ve ordered a pile of books from the library to check out which I want to spend my cash on…all on the topic of fitting and altering knits.

Fitting is my new obsession, and I’m not remotely sorry! 😉

I do hope this all makes some sort of sense to you, and that it’s made the CustomFit offering a little more accessible, because I do think it’s a really great option to have available to us knitters. Please do leave a comment with any questions you might have.  I’m by no means an expert in this but I’ll do my best to answer.

In the spirit of full disclosure, I haven’t received any recompense or reward from Amy Herzog or her team in return for this review. In fact I actually bought the CustomFit recipe, CustomFit pattern, AND the standard pattern, thus paying completely over the odds, mainly because I’m an idiot!.  All opinions expressed in this article are entirely my own.

Images used throughout are shamelessly borrowed from Kate Davies Designs and CustomFit with much gratitude.

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Pleated Playsuit with Cattitude

July 27, 2014

 

Pleated playsuit catitude-1We’re one week into the summer school holidays and revelling in the complete lack of commitments to anyone but ourselves.  Leisurely mornings give way to afternoons in the park or playing in the garden or visiting with grandparents.

Obviously crafty pursuits aren’t my priority, but even so, I managed to whip up this little playsuit for Button, which is the perfect outfit for the hot weather we’ve been having here of late.

The pattern is Elegance & Elephant’s Pleated Playsuit…a free pattern that you’d happily pay good money for.

Pleated playsuit cover

I love Heidi’s patterns, as you know, and this one is no exception. There are some adorable details:

:: elastic waist for comfort and faux piped pocketsPleated playsuit catitude-1-1

:: cute leg cuffsPleated playsuit catitude-1-2

:: shoulder tiesPleated playsuit catitude-1-3

:: inverted pleat on the front bodicePleated playsuit catitude-1-4This is one of those fabulously satisfying makes that is super simple to sew, but looks very expensive when you’ve finished.

The fabric is Lizzie House’s Cattitude which Button had loved so much when I made the Geranium dress, but this time in an almost acid chartreuse bought on sale from John Lewis.  I’d been browsing there a couple of weeks ago with no intention of purchasing fabric, but as soon as I saw this I snaffled the last metre or so with glee.

Pleated playsuit catitude-1-5

I’m so glad I did.  I just adore this little playsuit and have at least two more planned. It’s comfy, cute and modest.

Pleated playsuit catitude-1-6

What more could you ask for?

 

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Compagnie M. Mara Blog Tour – Mara goes to Paris

July 22, 2014

When Marte announced a secret summer blog action over at Compagnie M. I didn’t have to think twice before adding my name to the list.

When I found out that the subject of our secret mission was to be the Mara Blouse, I was thrilled.

Compagnie-M_mara_blouse_square

You can see my Paris inspired Mara blouse, head on over to the Mara blog now and check it out…then head on back to find out how you can win some super prizes.

Mara 8-1

Discount code:

If you’d like to make your own version of the Mara blouse, Marte is generously offering a 10% discount on the pattern from now until 17th August 2014.  Just pop over to her shop and use the code MARA-ACTION.

Sewalong:

Once you’ve bought your pattern, why not enter your Mara in the sewalong.  There are some great prizes to be won…check them out here!  The closing date for the sewalong is 17th August 2014.

Mara 7

A note about the fabric:

Whilst we are now right at the beginning of the summer holidays, when very little in the way of sewing will take place, I wanted to be prepared for the raft of family events and parties that will take place in the autumn.  With that in mind I created a season appropriate party outfit for Button that will be equally at home at a family lunch or a school friends bash at a play centre.

My fabric choice was a complete antidote the the raft of Pepto Bismol and Acid Barbie Pink that my little miss has been choosing at every opportunity recently.  I completely pulled rank on this…I’m sewing it…I get to choose the fabric.  Total Mummy Brat moment and I’m not sorry! 😉

IMG_1348
IMG_1350

The Eiffel Tower fabric is from Oh Sew Crafty on eBay, and the spot from Dunelm.

Disclaimer:  

I received a complimentary copy of the Mara pattern in return for my participation in the Blog Tour.  As always, all opinions are entirely my own.

 

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Minty fresh tank top

July 12, 2014

When I first met The Husband I was living in Surrey and working in London. At the weekends (or during the week if he could swing a meeting locally) he would drive the 280-ish miles to visit (and the same home again on a Sunday night).

On the Saturday we’d do fun things…oftentimes involving taking the 25 minute train journey into London and ‘doing’ a museum or some shopping, or a long and boozy lunch.

Berwick street

And, now and again, quelle surprise, we’d find ourselves on Berwick Street and he would happily traipse in and out of fabric shops and treat me to a metre or many of lovely fabric.

One such purchase was some incredibly soft and drapey pale spearmint coloured linen.  It’s buttery texture is divine and it’s just opaque enough to maintain your modesty whilst you stay cool.  It was £20 a metre 8 years ago.  Not cheap.

And it’s sat in my stash for 8 years because I couldn’t decide what to sew with it.

Which is, quite frankly, a crazy waste of beautiful fabric.

With the new found (Wardrobe Architect motivated) spirit of sewing up or shipping out my stash fabric, it was time to bit the bullet on this an actually make something from this lovely linen, and I wanted something that I would get a great deal of wear out of over the summer months.  A dress would be lovely, but wouldn’t get the wear, so I decided on a simple tank top.

I knew I wanted a breezy and long line silhouette, a curvy hemline and some tiny tucks across the front, but couldn’t find a pattern that cut the mustard.

For as long as I can remember I’ve been banging on about making my own patterns, so, I did.

1886

I used Simplicity 1886 as a block, traced a copy so I could scribble, cut and tape to my hearts content, and in very little time, had a pattern that I absolutely love.

green linen top 1

I made the following alterations:

:: added 1/2″ to each side seam allowance to give me a loose silhouette

:: dropped the neckline by about 1″ (ish) and scooped the neckline front and back to make it wider

:: added 2″ to the front of the blouse and 3″ to the back

:: shaped the sides to give a shirt tail effect

green linen shirt tails

:: replaced the neckline facing with a self made bias binding facing

green linen bias bound neckline

:: armholes also have a bias bound facing

:: added 6 x 1/4″ pintucks to the front of the bodice

green linen pintucks

It sounds like a lot when you write it down, but it didn’t take very long at all to do, and now I have a top that as soon as I’ve worn it, goes into the wash so I can wear it again as soon as possible.

green linen top

I adore this top and only want to make a couple of teeny tiny changes for the next one.

:: raise the front neckline by about 1/2″.  Because the top is so breezy, the neckline can be a bit precarious when I lean forwards…not cool at the school gate!

:: the darts are a bit hinky.  The fabric hides a multitude of sins, but I need to bring the bust point back a little, possibly only 1/4″, just to avoid them hitting at the wrong point and ending up, well, pointy!

:: The side seams sit slightly towards the back of centre…again you can’t really see it but I’m aware of it.  Moving them forwards just 1/2″ will solve that problem.

Very minor changes that will make the next top pretty much perfect.  Now I just need to decide what I’ll put in place of the pintucks for a different look! 😉

PS…yes…those are my red Lotta’s.  They get as much, if not more, wear than this top.

PPS…and yes, my blue one’s are here too.  😀

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Red Denim Spring Showers Jacket

May 30, 2014

Today we spent a happy couple of hours at the local park so I took the opportunity to grab a few photos of Miss Button in her new Spring Showers Jacket.

Red Spring Showers-1

She wasn’t really in the mood, so these aren’t the best photos ever…but they still show you just how cute she looks in this.

Red Spring Showers-1-1

The fabric is some lovely heavy red denim that Jane kindly picked up for me from the Goldhawk Road.  It had been earmarked for a skirt for me (check out Jane’s fabulous Delphine skirt from Tilly’s new book) but Button really loved it and I’m a sucker for those baby blues…so here it is in her jacket!

Spring Showers Jacket-1-1

You can see from the turned back cuffs in the pics above that the sleeves are lined with standard acetate lining, purely to make this jacket easier to slip on and off over the lovely hand knit sweaters that Ma keeps us supplied with.  The hood and body of the jacket are lined in this beautiful cotton poplin from The Buttonhole in Chorley.

I also added a pop of the print to the pockets.

IMG_1183_edited-1

I cut the size 6 and it’s come up really big on her. Even over an Aran weight sweater.

Spring Showers Jacket-1

I should have tried Boy’s on her first, but obviously didn’t.  This is more to do with her being a little dot of a thing rather than any issue with the sizing of the pattern.

Mea Culpa!

At least she’ll get plenty of wear out of it.

And, of course there is plenty of lovely topstitching.

Spring Showers Jacket-1-3

As with Boy’s version I’m really pleased with this jacket and can’t recommend the pattern enough.  Every time we go out in these coats we get lovely compliments.  Always a sign of a successful make, I think.

Now, though, it’s time to make something for me! Hurrah!

Have a great weekend.  I’ll be spending tomorrow fitting a toile.  I’ve a works dinner on Thursday and nothing to wear, so I need to see if I can throw a dress together in time. Thankfully the kids are back at school on Monday and I’m only working Monday and Tuesday, so it’s not out-with the realms of possibility.

We shall see!

 

 

 

 

 

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A blue Geranium for Button

May 26, 2014

Blue Geranium 1I know I promised the red Spring Showers jacket next, but I finished this little Geranium dress the other day and the weather today was perfect for taking pictures.

Add to that a visit to the park to meet up with Amanda and Lily, and, well, I couldn’t resist.

Blue Geranium 2Although Button is 6, she’s really rather petite, so I cut the size 5 and added an inch to the length.

Blue Geranium 3The fabric is a fairly crisp cotton chambray that I received in the recent box of goodies from Himmelbjerget, lined with white cotton lawn…my go to lining for little dresses as it’s so soft next to the skin.

Blue Geranium top stitchingA little topstitching in white thread added a cute finish and highlights the notch at the neck.

Blue Geranium buttons

Perfectly matched buttons.

I couldn’t be happier with this little dress.  I have more of these planned for this summer.

As an aside, everyone thinks my two are total cherubs…yeah, right!  Here they are with Lily taking selfies for Instagram.

Selfies with Lily-1I despair!

Anyhoo, the weather is forecast to change tomorrow, so I’m hoping to get shots of the red jacket sooner rather than later.

Until then I do hope you’re enjoying your Monday/Bank Holiday/Memorial Day.

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A Geranium with Cattitude

April 28, 2014

I must be the last person in the sewingverse to make one of Rae’s delightful Geranium dresses.Geranium pattern front

Our little friend Vicky turned 2 last week, so it seemed the perfect opportunity to finally bite the bullet on this pattern.  It’s available in 2 size ranges, 0-5 and 6-12, and I bought the bundle with both sizes as I suspected that a certain Ms Button would have her beady and stylish eye on this once she saw it made up.

The fabric is Cattitude in Cream by Lizzie House, purchased from M is for Make (where it’s listed as Purrfectly Happy).  Look at those little faces!  And their cheeks!  Totally adorable.

Cattitude 3

I was super impressed with M is for Make.  Not only do they have a delightful selection of fabrics, but I placed my order on Tuesday morning and the fabric was in my hot little hands the very next day.  That’s the kind of fabric service we all love, no?

Catitude 1

This is a great pattern too.  The Husband passed comment at how quickly I had made this dress.  It comes together perfectly and very quickly.  The dress is lined in white cotton lawn, which you can just see peeping out of the neckline here, and I added a lining to the skirt and hand stitched the bodice lining in place as I didn’t want a line of stitches showing on the bodice.  Even so it was done and dusted in an afternoon.

Catitude 4

The hard bit was the buttons.  I really wanted to pick out the orange on the cat’s cheeks. They do say the Devil is in the details. Thankfully the button stall on Chorley market is something of a marvel and has a good range of colours.

Catitude 2

I think they’re a really good match.

I really enjoyed sewing this little dress.  As anticipated Ms Button was dropping hints so big they could break your toes, so expect to see some more iterations of this in the very near future.

But first I’ve got her Spring Showers Jacket cut out and ready to sew.

PS…top photographic tip.  Don’t photograph a cream dress against a cream cupboard in bright sunlight as you’re dashing out of the door, already late, and with a small boy throwing the screaming ab-dabs because….well I still don’t know what that was all about.  Anyway, if you do, you’ll get super-washed out photos that even PhotoShop won’t be able to rescue.  See Exhibit A above! Sigh!

 

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Welcome

Image of a woman in her fifties taken from the shoulders up. She has grey shoulder length hair, brown eyes and a soft smile.

Hi there,
I'm Evie and I knit, stitch, spin and sew.
With varying degrees of success!
But always with my family around me in our little town in the North of England.
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