DIY Cardigan and Cami : Helen’s Closet Blackwood and True Bias Ogden

The Helen’s Closet Blackwood cardigan is a staple in my wardrobe, and paired with a new Ogden Cami, I’ve got the perfect outfit for coffee dates with friends….although we’re back in local lockdown next week which isn’t encouraging.

Starting with the Blackwood cardigan, there’s nothing new to add about the pattern or construction. I’ve made this before here, here, here and here. As this is my fifth version of this pattern, I can safely say that this is top of my TNT pattern pile!

It’s so good, my mother-in-law requested one, so I made her a duplicate of this black one as a birthday gift. She loves it…and that makes 6!

The fabric is a fabulous, weighty jersey from Minerva Fabrics. It’s the John Kaldor Cadiz Plain Stretch Cotton Jersey Dress Fabric in Black. It comes in a range of lovely colours, is one of their reorder-able fabrics, and one that I’ll definitely buy again. Highly recommended!

Following my less than successful outing with the Itch to Stitch Crystal Cove Cami, I decided to dive into the Ogden Cami straight away so I could do a comparison.

From the moment this came off the printer I understood the hype about the Ogden Cami pattern. It is beautifully drafted and tiled. The pdf almost puts itself together.

I loved that the facing was wider than the Crystal Cove, and the construction is slightly different, but makes the whole thing simpler to sew.

I’ve made this in some gorgeous Robert Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen in White. It’s a beautiful colour. Bright whites don’t really flatter my completion, but this is a soft warm white that is perfect for me.

This version has a full lining in a lovely soft cotton voile, also from Minerva (I know this seems like the Minerva Show, but this isn’t a sponsored post!). I cut the front and back in both linen and lining, then hemmed the lining slightly shorter. It gives lovely coverage to the Cami. I’m wearing a navy and hot pink bra under this, and you’ll only know that because the straps peep out a little bit.

Cami’s are right outside my comfort zone as far as garment styles go. I’ve not had toned arms since 1998, but I really fell for all the gorgeous versions I’ve seen on the internet.

Also, it’s September. And whilst the weather here is unseasonably glorious, it is turning chilly. Who sews cami’s at the turn of the season?

Well, whilst it turns out that whilst toned arms would still be the best accessory for this, it’s a really easy top to wear. Especially as I’ll mostly be wearing it with a Blackwood!

In the pictures, this still looks a bit snug around the boobage. This is such a schoolgirl error I’m almost too ashamed to admit it. I was fiddling with the darts, and with handling the linen softened. Obviously soft linen stretches and I fitted it in this state.

Darts are my sewing nemesis at the moment. I’m out of practice sewing them and am trying to work out the ideal placement and shape. I just need to make more things with darts and really get to grips with them.

In these pictures the cami was right out of the wash and off the ironing board. The linen has reset itself a bit. This accounts for the snugness. Which will soften out with warmth and wearing.

Just count this as a public service announcement, and don’t be a numpty like me. Thankfully a) it’s not as pronounced as with the Crystal Cove, and b) I have a plan to get into shape, so eventually I’ll have a smaller embonpoint.

None of this will stop me wearing it, unlike the Crystal Cove, which is in the naughty corner of the wardrobe.

I don’t think it’s just the fit that makes this more wearable. I think the slightly wider strap is more flattering on a broad shoulder, and the neckline shaping is more nuanced. I’m surprised at how much I love the v-shaped back. I didn’t think I would, but I do!

So it’s official. For me the Ogden Cami wins over the Crystal Cove Cami by a country mile.

I’m going to retire the pattern for the winter. But I’ll be jumping on the bandwagon again next year, I’m sure. All the Ogden Cami’s and hacks will be mine!